simple and basic guide in troubleshooting your system. baka makatulong o makatipid.
*troubleshooting for subs and speakers:
Problem Possible solution
No sound from speaker confirm power is on from all components
Very low sound adjust fader control. check connection cables equipment, etc.
Unnatural bass emphasis adjust loudness contour, xover points, bass control
Whining sound clean and tighten power/ground connections
check all cables and contacts, check all
grounding points
Distortion at very high listening check gain control, check amp input or output controls
levels check for blown ear
No high frequency output check passives xovers,
check xovers/active
check all connections
*troubleshooting a system
amplifier PROTECT mode (red indicator on)
1. a short circuit on the loudspeaker leads
2. an internal amplifier fault that causes a DC offset on the loudspeaker output
amplifier heat sink overheating
- amplifiers will shut down when the heat sink temperatures reaches 80 degrees centigrade, and turn back on once the unit has cooled down below that point.
1. inadequate cooling- relocate or remount to provide better natural airflow over the fins.
2. driving high power levels into low impedance- back off on the volume control, and make sure you are not loading the amplifier with less than the recommended loudspeaker impedance
low output power
1. check that level controls have been set up properly
2. make sure the battery voltage, as measured at the amps +12volt and ground terminals, is 11 volts or more
3. check all +12volt and ground connections
fuse blowing
1. the use of loudspeaker impedance below the recommended minimums will draw more current>>>check
2. a short on the main +12 volt cable from the battery to the vehicle chassis will cause the main fuse to blow
3. if an amp fuse blows continually, with on +12 volt, ground and remote leads connected, the amplifier maybe faulty
system does not turn on
1. check all fuses
2. check all connections
3. measure the +12 volt and remote turn on voltage at the amp terminals, if these are non existent or low, take voltage measurement at fuse holders, distribution blocks, the head unit's +12 volt and remote leads to localize the problem
*noise problems*
system noise can be divided into two categories, hiss and electrical interferences
Hiss, or white noise
1. High levels of white noise usually occurs when the amp level controls are turned up too high
- readjust amp level controls
2. another major problem that can cause excessive hiss, is a noisy headunit
- unplug the amp input rca cables, and if the hiss level reduces, the source unit is fault
Electrical interferences
the inside of an automobile is a very hostile electrical environment. the multitude of electrical system, such as the ignition system, alternator, fuel pumps, air conditioner, to mention just a few, create radiated electrical fields, as well as noise on the +12 volt supply and ground. remember to isolate the problem.
- first unplug amp input rca cables, if noise is still present, check speaker leads (for tear), if not, plug the rca back, and investigate the source driving the amp, one component at a time
>> a ticking or whine that changes with the engine rpm:
1. this problem could be caused by radiation pickup of rca cables too near to a fuel pump or a distributor, for instance--- relocate cables
2. check that the headunit ground is connected straight to the vehicle chassis, and does not use factory wiring ground
3. try to supply the headunit with a clean +12 volt supply directly from the battery +, instead of using a supply from the in dash wiring/fuse box
>> a constant whine:
this type of noise can be more difficult to pinpoint, but is usually caused by some kind of instability, causing oscillations in the system
1. check all connections, especially for good grounds
2. make sure that no speaker leads are shorting to exposed metal on the vehicle chassis
3. rca cables are notorious for their problematic nature, so check that these are good, in particular the shield connections.